The tomato-based seafood stew called “cioppino” began in the kitchens of San Francisco’s Italian-American immigrants. Those cooks used a variety of fish and shellfish found in their new region to make this colorful, hearty meal.
Take that stew pot to New England and the seafood changes. Where San Francisco cooks have Dungeness crab, New Englanders have lobster, haddock, and other bounty from the North Atlantic.
Cioppino, it turns out, translates just fine to East Coast tables.