Garbage cooking, avant-garde offal


Ferran Adria says: “if we can only use elite products to compile a menu, haute cuisine is dead.”

Before eating only “elite products”, the wealthy, the rest, the lower middle class, they were satisfied with the cheapest products. Some bought the pork fillet, others the fillets from the head of the waist, the last offal, liver, heart, etc.

There were shops specializing in these “delicacies” called casquerías, which gradually disappeared as these products found a niche next to the fillets in the butchers.

No one says which piece of meat is better or worse, as each has its defenders and opponents, in many cases I prefer well-cooked offal to the best fillet. Some good tripe, blood and liver, battered or stewed pig’s ear, rennet, etc., some dishes that have remained in our gastronomic culture since the pig became a pig.

Well, the same thing happens with the entrails of fish or seafood, as in the late 90’s Ferran Adria began researching this product in the kitchen of his restaurant elBulli.

Previously, fish waste went directly to the garbage, now a few years later they are attacking avant-garde kitchens due to the fact that the most modern chefs have included them in their menu due to their determination to make the most of all food. Salmon blood, red mullet and liver, bream eyes, etc.

According to Oceana.org, for every six kilograms of fish caught in Europe, a person does not reach the market because he is thrown overboard into the sea. This kilogram for every six is ​​called discarded fish, a practice in which Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) defines “that part of the catch which is returned to the sea for some reason”. This “whatever the reason” comes from the fact that the fish is ugly to the eye, has numerous bones or almost no meat, although small grains are also discarded, those with good reason, “minnows, no thanks”.

Surely you’ve ever tried “Cabracho Cake”. Well, this species, one of the ugliest fish in the world and so full of thorns, that in France it was known by the nicknames “devil” and “sea scorpion” before it was only used to make fish broth until Juan Marie arrived . Arzak in the 70’s and made it the King of his letter.

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We told you a long time ago that Ferran Adria has included this season a dish made with mackerel semen in elBulli’s menu, a delicate bite (they say) with a creamy texture similar to that of the brain.

I know that happy prejudices often leave us wanting to try new products, techniques and ingredients, but they are there and until they are removed, we will not be able to fully enjoy our gastronomy.

Come to think of it, if the “rich” eat offal now, who eats the fillets?



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